Foraging in the woods for mushrooms could be a pleasant weekend outing. Many French people like to do so. However, how do you know if the ones you have picked are bona fide and not a poisonous lookalike? Easy, take your basket to the local chemist. Pharmacists have all been trained to recognise edible mushrooms from toxic ones. You don’t get service like that in Boots the Chemist. Interestingly the variety ‘trompette de la mort’ is edible. My friend Juliette tells this joke. ‘All mushrooms are edible, but some, only once.’

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